We Didn't Start the Falla

La Cremá ...The Day of the Burnings

I went BACK to bed Saturday morning at 5:30 a.m. after sending Mom and Joe off to the airport via taxi. I came back to my building to find it had turned into a frat house over the week. It was in shambles, people were still up and drunk (which was true of people everywhere in Valencia), and our kitchen apartment was a complete mess. I helped a drunken and passed out roommate to bed who had fallen asleep sitting up in a kitchen chair, and then I collapsed into a 5 hour sleep. Lillie had left a note on my door saying "Hey girl. Lunch @ 11 and mascletá despues de."

"Oh lord," I thought, "Can I really shuffle my way through another crowd and wait and wait and wait for yet another firework show?? I gotta! I just gotta! Last day. It's time to man up. I can do this." So I set my alarm and off we went... after enjoying a delicious girl scout snack courtesy of Joe.


On the way we got a shot of the Virgin, all flowered up.


She will stay up for a week after Fallas is over.



In a single file line we wormed our way through the crowd


And actually made it into the plaza for the final mascletá.



Then it was more waiting for about 40 minutes. We played "Everyone in the circle name an animal that starts with each letter of the alphabet," and the show started right when we finished the Z's...(which besides zebra and zebra fish, we were at a loss for anymore Z animals)


I get that you may not have any interest in watching more firework videos. I filmed the whole mascletá this time. It was my last one. These had been happening every day for 3 weeks. This was my farewell to the most bizarre day-time thing I've ever experienced. So it's fine...skip the first one. But you should watch a little of the second one near the end to see how much smoke fills the air around us.




After the best mascletá of all, we shuffled our way through more crowds to try and find some food, passing some unseen fallas along the way. Every place in Valencia was packed. Not only were there no seats in any restaurants, there were hardly any seats on the sidewalks. Starving and exhausted...we surrendered to McDonald's (my first since arriving in Spain). Desperate times call for desperate measures. We got our meals pretty fast considering how packed it was, found a nasty spot on the ground outside the bullring, and stuffed our faces full of soggy fries and ice-less cokes.


We finally made it back home...which wasn't so sweet due to the never ending African drum circle outside our windows. Seriously, they never stopped. I did not move from my bed for the rest of the afternoon. Around 8 or 9 I started to get hungry. Had no food. The markets were all closed. And EVERY restaurant (even the nasty pizza place next to us) had ridiculously long lines. Plus, there was no way I could make it through another crowd if I didn't have to. My friend Melissa, also hungry and foodless, messaged me. Together we came up with some eggs, cheese, and stale bread to make a dinner. Then it was time for the first round of falla burning.
The schedule was supposed to go like this:
10:00 - The infantile Fallas burn (the little ones)
Midnight- Big Fallas burn
12:30 - Big Fallas that won awards burn
1:00 a.m. - The Falla in the town plaza burns

Yeah right, welcome to Spanish life. The schedule pretty much went out the window after the 10:00 burning.

We were able to watch our little falla burn from our balcony.
Melissa and Freddie already in place.


Here's a look at the circle of people starting to form around the little falla...oh and the African drum circle right below.


Video before the little falla burned



Video of the little falla burning. Right before any falla burns (big or little) they set off fireworks (ummm duh, of course) and then some firecrackers go off in a string headed towards the falla to start the fire.
Be aware, there's a big giant F word near the beginning of this video...my fellow FSU student wasn't prepared for the big firecracker beginning. So please excuse her.. and me for posting it, but it's the only little falla burning I'll ever have on video.





Kelly and me between falla burnings.
Here, I am actually MORE tired than I look in the picture.


Firework wound from the night before. Ash in the eye. No bueno.


At 11:00 we made our way down the street to a big falla that we assumed would burn at midnight. The plan was to watch it burn then try to quickly make our way to the 1:00 town plaza burning...although we realized it was wishful thinking that A) we'd make it in time and B) even if we did, the crowd would be too big to even see the thing burn. But we figured we had to try.

Here's the falla we watched. This shot is from the back...basically a big skeleton dude sitting on a demon-looking castle.


Close up


A shot during the day from someone else's camera.



We waited and waited... the bomb squad arrived (aka firefighters).


Photo opp with the semi-hot bomberos.


We waited and waited... and waited some more... playing more pass-the-time games. (At this point I had played them all)
Around 12:15, we could hear and see other fallas shooting their fireworks...signaling the beginning of their flaming demise. But our bomberos were not making any moves towards starting our falla fire. We concluded that this skeleton falla must have won an award, so it must be a 12:30 falla. A little boy near us said it had won 4th place in something. So we waited and waited some more.


And then about an hour later, we were at the point where we didn't even care about seeing a freakin falla burn. My body ached, claustrophobia was settling in as I hit my limit of standing and waiting in large crowds...then...all of a sudden the lights went out. And the fireworks began.


In case you couldn't tell, some of those fireworks were going off at about eye level. And we were the closest you could be to the pyrotechnics...one of the many things that shouldn't be allowed with fireworks and/or fire.

Then began the most bizarre/slightly scary but thrilling thing I've ever experienced. The falla started to burn. The fire started like a regular little fire...then grew and grew.. then the styrofoam ash (still glowing with fire) started floating into the sky...THEN, it started falling back down on top of us. That's the point in the video below when it gets a little crazy. We all had to cover our heads and run back a few steps. We start to feel little tingles on our necks and arms, and we think tiny fire sparks are falling all over us. Then, someone yells "It's water it's water!!" and we realize the bomberos have been lightly spraying water over us. We all calm down a bit and are able to stand a little closer and watch it burn after the ashes quit falling so heavily. But it is still soooo hot.

Also, I believe the same girl spouts off another cuss word at the end of this video. I wanted to punch her...but really, have you ever almost caught on fire from a burning styrofoam castle? You would cuss too.





Firey ash in the sky


After we thought the coast was clear (or as some Jackson folk say...the ghost was clear), I started taking pictures again when I felt a tinge on my arm. I looked down and a pretty large ash spark was burning through my fleece. "Ah I'm on fire I'm on fire!" Melanie started patting my arm and yelling "Stop drop and roll! Stop drop and roll!"... course this wasn't necessary in the end, but it's nice to know those routines come to mind in a mini crisis.

My falla battle scars. I will never throw this jacket away.


AHHHHHHH what is happening!!


After the styrofoam, the wooden frame is left to burn.



The HEAT ... soooo intense.


But never too hot for a girls picture


Melanie and Chris ... hooded for protection from falling ash fire.



Much needed bomberos... the trees would catch on fire and they would quickly douse them in water... at one point the side of a building started smoking.


The falla slowly started to dwindle down to nothing





The whole thing lasted about 20 minutes.

Here's a look at the crowd that was an appropriate distance from the burning structure.


Gracias guys




Ash droplets all over us


Aaaand we're done. We realized before the burning, when the clock struck one, that we did not have a prayer of seeing the town falla burn. Even if it hadn't burned yet, none of us had the energy to even attempt that crowd. If we weren't before, we were now officially through with fallas.

Walking back to our building... streets are trashed (although nothing compared to Friday night).


As we walked back, the little buñuelos stands started packing up. Fallas was over for all of Valencia.


Stopped by where our falla used to stand to take some pictures.
Old man in the chair and little naked kids watching porn were all gone.






Different view


Kelly and Brittany mourn over the embers



African drum circle finally quiet. Go home now.


And the next day... it is ALL gone. Almost as crazy and incredible as the Fallas week itself was the Sunday after when everything had been cleaned up and cleared away. It is a little spooky... like nothing ever happened.


African drum circle- gone



Before (at 2:00 a.m.)


After


Before



After


All that was left was a wee ashy skid mark on the ground where our falla burned.
The streets also had a sticky film over them until Monday morning when the washers came through. Other than those two things, you would never know the craziest festival in the world had just taken place.


Tents and people before



And after...
Cars back on the street.


.... Valencia is as it was.